The Timeless Craft of Indian Block Printing: History, Process & the Oh So Boho Significance

Did you know that the word ‘printing’ originates from the latin word ‘pressing’? Creating context for where Block Print is situated within history. Hand Block Printing dates back more than 2000 years, where it first appeared in China, subsequently it has evolved and emerged within many countries and cultures.

For our story, we look to India, where textiles, Block Printing in particular, has historical status as one of their most successful and ancient exports. A rare combination of a process surviving time and technology, riding the wave of industrialisation and surviving the mentality of quick, cheap capitalism. It is a generational craft, a beautiful example of a time consuming, weather dependent, distinct art form.

**What do you mean, unique?**

We do not use that word lightly. Technically speaking, each print differs from the next, a fingerprint of sorts defined by the hands that shape it. There is no printing press. No automated machinery with metres of fabric being incessantly produced, each one identical. A Hand Block Print cannot be perfectly duplicated, neither by machine nor man.

Think of a stamp.. the transference of ink to paper or fabric, through pressure. Now add layers of colour, the complexity of continuity, and bucket loads of patience and precision. Here is a tiny taste of what goes into the process.

The Process

How Traditional Block Printing Works

The design is drawn on paper, to be approved.

The carver prepares the block with white paste to create a uniform surface for printing. They will then carve away at the block until only the design is left, a process that requires skill, patience and accuracy, only achieved through experience.

Blocks are cured in oil.

Each block can only be used to print a single colour, therefor if a designs includes several colours several blocks will be carved for this purpose. Designed to fit exactly into one another, a complicated and technical process.

The fabric is prepared, bleached and scoured to exterminate impurities and ensure pigment is absorbed uniformly. A printing pad is used (sponge/felt) so that pigment is spread evenly on each block.

Fabric is pinned, and each wooden block is pressed to the sponge (pigment) and then fabric, touching the cloth it is pressed or beaten firmly with a mallet to ensure quality impression. This is repeated. If a continuous pattern is required, the block is placed adjacent to the existing design. If different colours are used, the outline is printed first, followed by layers of colours using different blocks.

Printed cloth is sun dried to fix the colour.

Where do we get our block print?

Ragiasthan, the heart of Block Print. It’s rich, mystical, and full of colour. This infuses the printing process and products. The oldest techniques of dying and printing are found in this state, conserved through royal patronage. Famous for their colour, which is achieved through vegetable dye on cotton. Examples of this can be found in our clothing range, specially our indigo products.

Bagru vs. Sanganer: Regional Styles Explained

Within Rajasthan, there are many villages that serve as hubs for Hand Block Print production. For example the villages of Bagru and Sanganer, widely know for their namesakes: a specific style of Block Print.

The environment informs the art. In Bagru water is scarce, and has a reddish tinge, this produces unique colours: a darker background shade, and plays into the rich tones and striking imagery of each print. Enhancing the source, colours are crafted with natural dyes: tree bark, roots, clay…

While in Sanganer, where water is plentiful, adding a layer of ease to the printing process. This translates to a light background, delicate lines, and bright colours.

Can you spot which is Bagru, and which is Sanganer?

All in all, we continue to be honoured and excited to share this art form with all of you! We hope that this little look into a big, beautiful process adds something to the pieces you may already have, and, if you're feeling all sorts of inspired..

Take a look at our treasure trove of Block Print Fabric: Clothing and Homeware

Right Here!